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...But When Was It Roasted?
Article by Dave Earnest, Founder,
Cobblestone Coffee / CobblestoneCoffee.com.
There are three major
categories that have an influence on the quality of the enjoyment of your
brewed coffee. Three major objectives as they relate to freshness, or as I
like to say, the three major freshes. The are: The freshness of the roast
of your beans, the freshness of the grind of those beans before you brew,
and the freshness of the brew of your beverage before you sip. The closer
you get to the perfection in the freshness in all three of these
categories, then the closer you will be to experiencing nirvana in your
cup.
Just roasted, just ground, just brewed coffee is what we all
should strive for, and it's these qualities that make the difference
between so so, ho hum coffee, and the sweet and glorious extraction of the
gods! (cue music and heavenly beam of sunlight) We here at Cobblestone are
here to fight against the "good enough" mentality of coffee drinkers out
there, to prove to you that there is much better and easily obtainable
coffee than "good enough". You know, a Yugo is "good enough"
transportation, why would anyone want a vehicle that is more expensive,
when a Yugo is "good enough?" When you have driven and experienced a fine
luxury automobile, and then have to sit back in to that economy vehicle,
you'll notice the difference that quality makes. The same applies with top
of the line coffees, except you will not have to pay the difference
between an economy car and a luxury vehicle to be able to enjoy great
coffee at home.
Part of the service that we provide to our
customers, in addition to providing you with top of the line, hand crafted
coffees (by yours truly), is informing you of what to look for on the
market (should you choose to look elsewhere) and what we all can do at
home to enhance the quality and enjoyment of the coffee you have
purchased.
This article focuses on purchasing freshly roasted
coffee. What's the big deal?
First things first, a fine coffee
experience starts with a high quality coffee bean. All coffee beans are
NOT created equal. There are high quality coffee beans and very low
quality coffees beans grown on the planet that are available to the
roasters. If your roaster is not selecting the highest quality coffees for
you, then you are screwed from the beginning when they say hello to you.
But let's assume that we have a quality bean AND, let's assume that is was
expertly roasted. Two assumptions we will use as a given for sake of our
discussion.
The first of my three 'Fresh' objectives mentioned
above is in the proximity of brewing your coffee as close to the date that
the beans were actually roasted. As close as you can get the brewing of
your coffee to the day after the day your coffee was roasted, the higher
the quality of your beverage will be. Keep in mind that the "Magic Window"
in fresh roasted coffee is in the first two weeks of it having been
roasted, and that is no matter HOW the coffee is packaged. The first two
weeks is the critical timeframe, after that, it's all down hill, and you
start heading for "good enough". Even within that two week window, the
closer you get to the day after roasting, the more developed and full
bodied your coffee will be.
Now that we know this, let's take a
walk through the coffee aisle at your local supermarket. Stroll along with
me, can you hear the elevator music? We all love to walk through here, it
smells fantastic doesn't it? Watch out for those grounds on the floor down
there, they haven't cleaned that up in a while… clean up here on ailse
three, Joey. Ahh, the aromas. Wait a second… stop the music. We
smell coffee in the coffee aisle, right? As a matter of fact, it smells
like flavored coffee... Coffee doesn't release aromas
unless it is exposed to the air, which means that there is coffee present
that is not sealed up and protected from the oxygen. This is
because of the bulk coffee in the dispensers is sitting there airing out
all of it's qualities. Yep, it's sitting in there waiting,
staling away, and the freshest of that coffee is on the top of the chute,
not at the bottom, from which the next person will be drawing
from. They will be drawing out the stalest coffee in the chute…
and exactly how long has it been sitting in there exposed to the air
anyway? And… how long ago was it roasted before it even made it
to this store to sit and stale away in this bin? (A side note, what's the
easiest way to hide stale coffee? Flavor it. Yep, slap a flavor oil on the
stale coffee and there you go, good as new... but I
digress.)
Alright, well let's put aside the bulk stale coffees and
look at the packaged coffee on the shelf while we enjoy those
aromas.
So many choices, and they all say 'Gourmet'. …so they all
have to be good then, right?
Remember, it all starts with a high
quality bean. Beware of generic descriptions, such as "Colombian Blend" or
"Gourmet Blend" or etcetera, and look for specifics. (from a previous
article, you all know how I feel about a "French Roast" blend) Look for
specifics such as "Mexican High Grown, from Chiapas" or "Java Estate
Kimel-A" or etc. These are specific coffees from specific farms in
specific countries. If the label does not speak in specifics, then that
means that they can not BE specific about what is in that package. Look at
the Kona "Blends" that you will see out there, versus 100% Pure Kona
coffee. Lot's of "Hawaiian Blends" out there. What does that mean? By FDA
rules it only has to be 10% coffee that comes from somewhere in
Hawaii, and the rest is filler. …and they are asking how much for
that? Beware of those blends, read the small print, and remember, what is
not written on the label is just as revealing as what is. My
favorite label that I have found once read "Imported!!" Yeah, no joke
Sherlock, all coffees are imported in to the States, with the exception of
Hawaiian coffees, the only beans grown in American soil. Another one reads
"100% Arabica Beans!!" Well I hope so! Again, no joke Sherlock,
all specialty grade coffees are from Arabica beans. All of them. It's
funny what you'll find on a label to make a product 'sound' more valuable
than it really is… I suppose that is why those Marketing suits at
'Corporate' make so much money… but I digress yet again…
Ok, so
let's assume we have a specific high end coffee in front of us and
everything looks legitimate. …but when was it
roasted?
My analogy here for fresh roasted coffee is of freshly
baked bread, fresh out of the oven. In most every case that I have
personally experienced, bread is at it's best when it is fresh out of the
oven, still warm and steaming. Awesome. I could go for some right now!
Coffee is no different. Your brew will be at it's best, the closer you get
to the date it was roasted. But after your coffee has been roasted, as
time goes by, the quality of the extraction will diminish. Anyone for day
old coffee? How about month old coffee? You get the point here. It takes
guts to put a "roasted on" date on your packaging. We put it on
ours, because we want you to know precisely when your coffee was roasted.
That's our niche, that's what you are paying for when you buy coffee from
us. We don't roast coffee until someone has actually ordered it or we
think it will find a home within that day. Why isn't everyone else out
there putting their roasted on dates on their labels? Why? My guess is
because they don't want you to know when that coffee was roasted.
They can't tell you because it takes too long for their product to get
through the supply chain to the shelf at your local store. Their coffee is
just plain too old, it's outside of the magic window. They keep touting
that their coffee is the best ever, but they don't reveal how long ago the
coffee is roasted knowing full well that proximity to the roasting date is
crucial for the best possible experience of their product.
The next
quality to look for... is the packaging itself. Seek out packaging that
has a means of allowing the freshly roasted coffees to "de-gas". All
coffees release CO2 after having just been roasted. It's science. It's
nature. It happens, and you can't stop it. Coffee placed and sealed in
packing after having just been roasted, will fill the package with CO2, to
the point of "pillowing" the packaging, and will eventually lead to a
burst at the seals due to the pressure built up inside being stronger than
the packaging can handle.
A true sign of a freshly roasted, freshly
packaged coffee by a roaster that cares about your
enjoyment, is the presence of a "one way valve" located somewhere on the
packaging. This is a circular impression on the outside of the bag, with a
small hole visible in the center. On the inside of the bag is the valve,
that allows built up pressure to release while not allowing any oxygen
back inside of the package while it is still sealed. A package with this
valve is a sure sign that the roaster is concerned about the product
enough to package it while it is still degassing (it's still fresh), and
has provided a means for it to do so without a failure in the packaging.
These valves are expensive, but essential to providing a high quality
product. The only way to package coffee in flexible packaging without a
valve, is to allow it to de-gas first before being packaged. Degassing is
otherwise known as staling. Big corporate coffee practices the art of
staling it's coffee before it is even packaged, to avoid having to
purchase the valves. They call it fresh roasted on the label, but I called
it freshly staled as well. Funny, they don't write that on the label some
reason… Fresh roasted coffee releases gas. If you've got gas, you need a
valve. If there's no valve, then there's no gas, and if there is no gas,
then the coffee is stale.
Next time you are perusing the coffee
aisle, look for the packaging with the one way valves. More specifically,
look for the packaging without the valves, and take a look at who
they are. Which ones of those labels are from publically held companies?
Yep, I thought so. Big corporate, bottom line driven coffee. It's an
enlightening experience.
There you go folks, a few qualities to
look for while you are looking for coffee: a high quality bean or blend,
having just been (expertly) roasted. Future articles will discuss why it's
important to grind just before you brew, and why you should sip just after
you brew.
Happy Sipping!
Comments? Dave can be contacted
via email at dave@cobblestonecoffee.com.
(c)
Copyright Cobblestone Coffee. Reproduction by written permission
only.
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